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  Wilkinson and Stewart Wedding

  
  

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The wedding of Jodie Wilkinson and James Stewart is in Edinburgh, Scotland  on Saturday the 19th November 2005.   I tell all of my friends, "I come when I am invited." so James decides to test the theory.  He invites us to the wedding and after a lot of moving things around and working things out we finally tell him that we would be honored to fly over to Scotland in November and attend their wedding.   One of the problems that does come up is that the Novell Global Kick-Off meeting runs from the 11th of November through the 18th of November.   It is going to be tight and since this is a sales meeting I will be tight most nights I'm there.  No sleep, lots of booze and 10 hour days sitting in one hour chairs.  (Author note: Chairs are designed and sold based on the amount of time a person can sit comfortably in them. These chairs were better than some but were rated optimistically as "one hour .")  

The sales meeting was global so I got to see all of my old friends from EMEA. (Europe, Middle East, and Africa)   I haven't seen most of them for at least three years.  I dumped all of the travel, packing, and arrangements on Cheryl except for the tasks that I stuck Jodie with.  I know, who is so insensitive, so crude, so unsophisticated as to ask the bride to book a hotel for them while she is trying to plan a huge wedding at the Edinburgh Castle, the answer, of course is "Only a rude insensitive American."   

My Mom comes down to watch the kids and I head off to the sales meeting, nope I didn't spend any time with her either, remember the insensitive part.  I picked her up from the airport and then took off for a week to the sales meeting coming back with just enough time to dump off my laundry, which I am sure my Mom will wash while Cheryl and I tour around Scotland.  If you have not recognized the theme yet, you are not paying attention.    

The week before the sales meeting Novell decides to reduce cost by getting rid of the area that I work in.   I spend a little time wondering if I'll have a job and then a lot wondering what my new job will be.   I get told that my new job is; Linux Partner Development for the Western United States which means a couple of things; one I have a job, which is good, two that I love my new job which is also pretty damn good.    It also means that after being with Novell for 15 years I am the "new guy".   I know most of the technical people in the West but almost no one else, and most of the guys don't know me.  I meet my new boss, we know each other well enough to say "Hi" in the hallway but only that well.  We would still have to turn to someone else and ask, "Who is that guy?"  

One of the benefits of 15 years with Novell is that a lot of people know me because I've had a lot of jobs. I've been the SE Manager for Southern California, a Business Strategist, Business Development for Consulting, Heading up Corporate System Engineering and the Briefing Center, and I ran System Engineering in EMEA, so when I was walking back to the Hotel with my new boss, I think he was surprised at the number of people that stopped us to say, "Hi."   The German's, Brits, Danes, Russians, Dutch, South Africans, Italians, just about everyone from EMEA except the French.  I'm not sure if that was because we didn't see anybody from France or because they were happy to forget me.  Any way it took a long time to walk back to our hotel.   I also kept making plans saying, "We should hook up. I'll see you later.  Grab me when you have sometime.  Lets do dinner." and other promises like that.   This would come back to bite me on the butt later.

It is very hard to hook up at a sales meeting, they keep us very busy and of course there is so much drinking that after the first 6 hours you tend to forget who you have spent some time with and who you haven't.    Time is running out and I haven't hooked up with a tenth of the people I wanted to.   We had an awards dinner on Monday night.  My old area, the one that they got rid of, won a ton of awards, which was a little annoying in the beginning. but after finishing off the second bottle of claret it was more amusing than annoying.   Even I won an award,  Top BPE (Business Partner Executive) for North America..   I had looked at my "attainment" 99.98% the "night" before at 2:30 in the morning after having a drink or two, so I was not expecting to get an award.   It was a very nice way to get introduced to the new team.  I got to stand next to Susan the President of the Americas but I think by then even she was thinking, "Doesn't this ever end."

I didn't tell you this part of the story to brag, OK maybe a little, but mostly to setup for the next part of the story.   The next day I get a call from Bill Noonan. He asked if I can meet him.  I am dropping my stuff off in the room during the lunch break across the street.  It is raining like maybe somebody should be thinking about getting the animals together and building an Ark.   I run back to meet him were they are serving lunch.   He doesn't know me so is surprised to see a balding, soaked to the bone, fat, out of breath guy, barreling up to him.  He says, "Hi, are you Tom?"  but you can tell by his face he hopes he is wrong.   I disappoint him by saying, "Yes, I'm Tom."   He says, "Great." but it comes out more like "Damn."     He shakes his head and sticks out an envelope. Since we have been doing layoffs for the last week or so, I sneak a peek at it to see if it is pink.  He then swallows hard and says, "Ron would like you to sit with him at the basketball game tonight."    

So let me set this up.  I would rather stab my eyes out than sit through a basketball game.   Bill seems to sense my reluctance but assumes that I am smart enough to understand that the President of the company saved a seat next to him and no one would be stupid enough to turn down this opportunity.   But my stupidity has been underestimated before and I have never failed to amaze people with it's unplumbed depth.  I have promised a bunch of guys that worked for me in Europe to blow off the basketball game and go to dinner with them.  I have also approached Ron about a position that I heard about in China. I even talked to him about it over the phone and this would be a perfect opportunity to impress him.  I think about how I had promised these guys since we heard the sales meeting was going to be "Global" that I would hook up with them.  I couldn't tell them that I blew them off because I wanted to suck up to the president." I turned to Bill and said, "I'm really sorry and very honored but I promised a bunch of guys that I use to work with that I would hook up with them tonight.  His amazement was clearly visible, He was nice enough to say, "No problem, don't worry about it, I'll find someone else."  Of course that he was shaking his head while he said it, didn't help.  I was already having second thoughts when he said, "Don't worry I won't tell Ron." He left off the implied "you're an idiot."    

I regretted it pretty much the rest of the day. I was sitting in classes that day shaking my head.  The instructors must have been very confused to see me shaking my head and mumbling under my breath, " What an idiot."  I called Cheryl and told her about winning the award and then mentioned that I turned down an opportunity to sit next to Ron. The phrase that she lovingly said to me would  reoccur every time and from everyone that I told the story to.   I'm sure even those of you reading this are saying it now in your mind.   Go ahead say it out loud, "What an idiot."   I lamely explained I haven't seen these guys for over three years,  This was my team.  I hired some of them, promoted them.  I loved these guys. How could I tell them that I was going to blow them off.  She saw my point and said, "What an idiot."    

I walked over to their hotel, but was a little early.  I called  up to Kevin's room completely terrified that maybe they were going to blow me off which would completely ruin my story which as I added up the columns was the only thing still firmly on the positive side.   I keep thinking, "Well at least it will make a pretty good travel log."   Kevin comes down and we have a few drinks in the bar.   It is 30 minutes after when we are all suppose to get together and it is still only Kevin and I.   People finally start to show up but one of my closest friends decides to blow me off and go to the game with his new boss.   He tells me later, "You understand, I couldn't not go to the game with my boss?"  I say, Sure I mean I blew off Ron, the President of the Company but yeah I could see why you had to go with your boss."   He looked at me dumbfounded and said, "You blew off Ron? What an idiot."   I looked around the rest of the bar and the people that I had managed for almost three years, people that I put my neck on the line for time and time again looked back shaking their collective heads and said, "Sorry, you are an idiot."  

We had a great night and I figured  I had a free pass to drink as much as I wanted to because I had already proven that large quantities of alcohol couldn't impair my very limited judgment, it also helped when someone else told the story and the person hearing it, even if they were completely wasted would look up from hugging the commode and slur to me, after wiping the spittle from their mouth, "What are you an idiot?"     I got back to the room at about 3:30 am and checked my attainment since I was told a couple of deals I had worked came through at the last minute.  My attainment was now 74.8% so instead of going up, it had dropped 25%, another reason not to skip the basketball game with the president of the company.    I couldn't tell Cheryl this part of the story since if I really did drop 25% Novell would be asking me to write them a check.  I sent a note off to my old boss and to the CFO to check on the problem and the message that came back was, "Tom's attainment is over 100% and that the only way he could have seen the 74% number would have been if he had checked it at 3:00 in the morning when the system was in the middle of updating."  The CFO was going to check on it since he was sure no one would be checking their attainment at 3:00 am.   I had to send back a note saying, "The bars close at 2:00 am and after stumbling back to my hotel it would have been about 3:00 am. when I checked it."  

My fame or infamy grew as the conference continued.  The story got better with each telling, some of them much more entertaining but two things remained constant my name and the phrase "What an idiot."    

backtotop-scotland-crest.jpgFlight to Scotland


I flew back to Fort Worth late on Wednesday and was never happier to leave a sales meeting in my life. My flight out to Scotland was Thursday. We did a belated birthday dinner for my son since his birthday was on the 13th of November.  I told the story one more time to my Mom and my son. My wife shook her head and said,"Why did you tell him that story?"  The implied message being "What an idiot."  In my defense it made him laugh and it is a good life lesson.  I'm writing this travel log on the plane as I jet 5000 miles from the disaster, happy in the knowledge that no one will know about this since I will not publish this travel log until after I return. I told every System Engineer on my team, all 85 of them, that they always had a place to stay if they ever came to the states.  A lot more of them took me up on it when I lived in Utah then do now since I live in Fort Worth, something about the skiing being a bit poor in Texas.  I also told them that. " I come when I am invited"   I have never looked forward to a wedding as much as I am looking forward to this one.  

I booked the tickets on British Airways a couple months ago and booked seats 37A and 37C not because I don't love my wife but because you can always trade a window or aisle seat for a middle seat, but you can not trade a middle seat for anything.  This seemed to make the guy at the ticket counter mad.  He said, "Some idiot didn't put your seats together.  I thought, "Damn even he heard the story."   I  told him I booked it that way on purpose and he looked at me the same way Bill did.  We waited in line behind a family with a screaming 1 year old.  I snuck  a look at their tickets  36 D, E, F and 37 D. I'm thinking maybe nobody will trade seats with us.   Luckily the person in 37B was traveling with her husband who was in 36B. The guy in the aisle didn't want to trade seats with her which would have put him between Cheryl and I for eight hours. He would trade for Cheryl's aisle seat. So we all playied musical chairs and got settled in.  The guy we moved must still be a bit unhappy because he has been jabbing his knees into my back for the last four hours.  

The screaming kid in 36D moved seats just after take off so I'm not complaining too much.   The mother and her screaming child wanted to move up to a bulkhead seat so the cute little tyke could have room to play on the floor. The flight attendant asked the guy on the aisle to switch with her but he decided not to.  The person in the middle seat said she would switch since it was an aisle seat.  I feel sorry for the poor bastard.  Now he has to sit next to the lady that he said no to, which I'm sure is a bit uncomfortable but if that is not bad enough he has to sit next to the screaming kid and have the cute little rug rat playing at his feet for 8 hours.  The girl that traded seats has watched a movie and is now all curled up fast asleep.  I know I'm an idiot but even I would have said, "You know now that I think about it I will give that poor mother and her beautiful child my seat.  It might not have worked but it would have been worth a shot, especially since I can still hear the kid screaming, just barely, but it is good to know I'm not the only guy shaking his head saying, "What an idiot."

The flight is uneventful and coming into the UK is like coming home. I have gone though UK immigration so often that I felt like "Tom Hanks" in the terminal. We get in the wrong line at immigration which is very long and finally realized our mistake after waiting in it for twenty minutes.  We whisk though the correct line and the lady behind the counter ask,"Why are you visiting the UK."  I have been practicing my reply for the last twenty minutes and say, "We are coming in for a wedding."  She looks at me and waits for me to continue. I am not sure what else I am suppose to say.  I thought it was a pretty complete answer, it implied that we were not coming in for business, I guess unless we were wedding planners, but she obviously wanted more information.  She finally asked, "Who's wedding?"   I really didn't have the slightest idea what I was suppose to tell her.  I was thinking, "I doubt she knows Jodie and James."   I finally say, "The Stewart Wedding.  We are going to Scotland for the Stewart Wedding." It might not be original but it is at least believable.  She looks at me with a look that made me thankful she wasn't armed and said, "Friends or Family?"   I sheepishly answer, "Friends." 

We were flying into Gatwick to change planes on the way to Edinburgh.    I assumed that since we were on an international flight that we would have to pick up our bags and go through customs, but after waiting for our bags for thirty minutes and standing in the customer service line for another twenty minutes we discovered that our bags were checked straight through to Edinburgh.  "I know, what an idiot."     This little mix up also means that we are outside of the secure area and have to wait in another queue for almost an hour and thirty minutes or because the UK uses the metric system, an hour and a half.  

I decide to change some money at the airport.  I have a couple hundred dollars worth of traveler checks that I have been carrying with me for over eight years so I decide to swap them for British pounds.  I turn in $200 in traveler checks and get back £100.02  Which I described as 100 quid and 2 shillings to Jodie which she reminded me would mean that not only did I not get a good exchange rate but I must have also traveled back in time since the UK hasn't done shillings for well over 20 years. Either way it works out to be about $2 to every pound.  Since everything cost exactly the same, for example a burger at the hotel cost £10.95  that means that everything cost at least twice as much as it does in the States.  

We have a nice short flight from Gatwick to Edinburgh and Cheryl asks me, "What hotel are we staying at?"  I tell her that I don't remember since Jodie set it up for me. She was none too happy that I stuck the bride with making our hotel reservations and that I was so disengaged that I had not bothered to write down the name of the hotel.  She then asks, "How are we going to get a taxi to the hotel if you don't know the name?"    I explain that James is going to pick us up. She is not pleased about this either since their wedding is tomorrow and I have asked them to pick us up at the airport.   I misunderstand her annoyance and say, "He will be late, but he will pick us up."  She says, "I wasn't worried about him being late it is just rude to have them pick us up."  Then she thinks about it for a few minutes and says, "He will be late?"   "Sure," I say, "he is always late but he will pick us up."   This is my formal apology - he was not late.  He tells me that he was four hours early.  I'm not sure that is true and I sure hope it wasn't, but he was there when we stepped off the plane, in fact I walked right pass him but then again I wasn't looking for him.  I was sure he was going to be late.  I'm going to take credit because I did try hard to impress the fact that he shouldn't be late.  He never was late over the next couple of days that we hooked up, he was as punctual as "Big Ben"

Jodie was there as well, and I was feeling very guilty since I assumed the Groom might not have much to do the day before the wedding but I know the bride does.  They drove us to the hotel the Best Western Bruntsfield. 
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You can click on the thumbnail photo to see a better photo of the hotel.  I have stayed at a few Best Western hotels but none of them were like this.  It was very nice. The rooms were as nice as any hotel I have stayed at in Europe, it has a cozy pub on the ground level and a very nice restaurant.  Now I wouldn't be a good American if I didn't bitch about something so I was unimpressed with the "Classic Hot and Cold faucets."  They look great but I think they are better suited for a kitchen than a bathroom. The hot faucet shot out steam like a Cappuccino machine and the cold dispensed water that immediately turned into ice.  To use them you either had to fill the sink or wave your hand from the cold to the hot, keeping your hands under the cold long enough so that they were too numb to feel the scalding heat from the hot faucet.

James and Jodie not only picked us up but also asked if we wanted to have a drink at the pub.  We cleaned came down with chapped and blistered hands but it was very surprising to get to spend sometime with them this close to the wedding.  We chatted and they gave us a gift of some books about Edinburgh which made me feel even guiltier. After a couple hours Jodie said to James, "Well we had better get going I have a few things to do before the wedding tomorrow."   I don't know if she is that organized or that gracious, but it was very impressive and touching.   When we got back to the room we realized that we must have stunk because the heater was off and the window was thrown open. Now normally I wouldn't be offended since sitting on an airplane for 12 hours waiting in a few dozen lines, and not sleeping for 26 hours does tend to give one an aroma, but Edinburgh is also known as "Auld Reekie."  It was suppose to be from poor sanitation in the old days and all of the distillerys now. So when the hotel maid thinks that the smell of bubbling gases and malted fermenting barley smells better than you do, you really do need to think about changing your cologne.    We burn our clothes, shut the window,  turn the heat back on, and took a quick shower in the still freezing room.  We lay down for a quick nap and by the time we wake up to the slamming of the door outside our room that leads to the stairwell, which by the way will be our seven a.m. wake up call for the rest of the week, it is almost dinner time.   We walk out towards the bar to find James and Jodie already there along with most of their family. James is unceremoniously kicked out so he won't see the Bride as she gets ready for the wedding, the rest of us go to dinner at the very nice hotel restaurant. 

backtotop-scotland-crest.jpgWilkinson and Stewart Wedding  podcast-mp3.gif.jpg


Wedding, What can you say about a wedding in Scotland at the Edinburgh Castle.   Edinburgh.jpgThe words  "Great Venue"  come to mind only because it was said  so many times by so many people.   Everyone said it at least once, no matter what else they said, " What a wonderful view.  What an amazing place.  What a perfect place to have a wedding ."  They would also always say, "What a great venue."    I assume we all said  it because it was true.  Your wedding day is always memorable but this venue has to burn it  in to your minds eye and I can tell you as a guest it is overwhelming.   The castle has such history.   They have just recently decided to allow weddings.   To quote a old movie line, "If you have the means, I highly recommend it."  

You will of course be mobbed by tourist, and if you have a piper and what would a wedding in Scotland be without a guy playing the bagpipes?   He will be mobbed.  I don't recommend wearing a kilt unless you can trace at least some long lost relative back to Scotland.   Luckily James' father really did come from Scotland and James was able to trace his Scottish roots back well enough convice the local Scots that he was more than justified in wearing a kilt. Of course the fading but still noticeable South African accent did raise a few eyebrows as they looked for the old family home.    But he did pass the test and was able to show up at the castle with him and his boys wearing kilts.    It could have been a royal wedding with as many pictures and tourist who had to be shooed away but it was very heady stuff.  Like I said if you have the means and even the slightest connection to Scotland I'd recommend thinking about having your wedding at the Castle.  You can check it out at: http://www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/index/weddings/edinburgh-castle-weddings.htm

Their wedding was at the Gatehouse Suite.  Which was lovely.  We got there a little early and I am afraid to mention this, because I know how cheap many of you are, but if you are going to a wedding in the Castle, you don't have to pay admission. Gatehouse Suite You just walk up to the guy at the gate and say, "We are here for the Stewart Wedding."   Since this is Scotland I'm sure there is always a Stewart wedding. The name is as common as Smith is in America. Sometimes it is spelled Stuart  but since you will be saying it and not spelling it, it will not matter.  You might want to be in a suit when you say it,  This will save you £9.80 per adult and another  £3.50 for each kid you want to sneak in. Cheryl made the mistake of wearing high heals which if you are just pretending to attend a wedding would be a big mistake.   I made the mistake of not remembering where the wedding was going to be held.  There are four locations; the Gatehouse Suite, the Jacobite Room, the Queen Anne Building and St Margaret's Chapel.   We arrived early, because we always do, so the guard at the gate sent us to St Margaret's Chapel where there was a wedding planned for 1:30 pm.  Jodie and James' wedding was suppose to start at 2:00 pm. It was before 1:00 pm, I know this because the "One O'clock Gun" had not fired yet.  I am an American but I assume that the One O'clock gun fires around 1:00 pm. In fact I am pretty sure it is exactly at 1:00 pm.  I know this because we saw the gunner checking the time with his mobile phone just before he fired the gun. Any way sometime before 1:00 pm. we walked up to St Margaret's Chapel and saw that it was closed for a private wedding.  The man at the front door asked us "If we were here for the wedding?" I assume he asked because Cheryl was in a little black dress and high heals and I was in a suit.  I'm sure it was a bit confusing when I asked who is getting married.   The guy answers, "Macgregor"  which I would guess is another good name to use if you want to sneak into the Castle without paying. This meant that poor Cheryl had to walk back down the cobblestone paths of the Castle, she wasn't that happy and believed that I might have thought of writing down the one location of the four, rather than just randomly picking the one that was farthest away. 

I told her to stay where she was and I would walk around and find the proper place. She wasn't too happy about this because, as I was informed, standing in high heals is just a bit less painful than walking in high heals.  I learned that the most comfortable posture was sitting and even sitting in high heals is not what you would call comfortable.   We found the Gatehouse suite which was conveniently located at the gatehouse, just past the drawbridge and the guard who gave us directions to the Macgregor wedding.  The door was locked because we were early which I thought would allow us to walk around and see the castle but having already had the "joy of high heals" explained to me now that seemed like a bad idea.   We went into the gift shop and shopped which I understand is the second less uncomfortable posture while wearing high heals.  Alan, one of my friends kept an eye on the gatehouse and we headed over about 15 minutes before the wedding was suppose to start.  

The castle as a venue is impressive enough but the Gatehouse is even more impressive.  The 19th century Gatehouse is situated at the entrance to the Castle and is comprised of two adjoining apartments. The wedding ironically is in "The Court Martial Room." I could make a joke but I'll leave that up to the reader. It is an ideal venue for a wedding ceremony. There is also access to a private Terrace providing a stunning backdrop for wedding photographs with views of The Royal Mile and The City of Edinburgh. You walk up a solid stone tower steps, probably not as impressive in high heals but I couldn't help but think of Scottish soldiers walking up the same steps wondering how long it was going to take to get those silly American rebels under control.   We got to the top of the steps and it opened into a wood paneled room that also had an observation area that looked out over Edinburgh.  You could look down and see the draw bridge flanked by two huge flaming torches.  The draw bridge of course covered the obligatory but still impressive moat.  We watched as James, Kenny the best man, and James' sons; Neil, and Nicholas (Nick) drive up and got out of their hired car to the delight of the crowd.  The wedding party was in full Scottish kit, Kilts with the Stewart tarter, Sgian Dubhs tucked into their socks, Torches at the Gates of Edinburgh Castlealthough Nick's and Neil's had plastic blades not sharpened steel. Which I think their parents were happy about later since they did a bit of sword fighting with them.   They were also wearing Scottish Ghillie Brogues the traditional shoe worn with Kilts.   I'll have to tell a quick story here although I didn't learn about it until much later.   Kilts have a correct length and since they are worn by man and not by women that length has remained pretty constant and you don't have to buy the latest copy of Vogue to figure out what the proper length is this season.  You check the length by knelling and if the bottom of the Kilt touches the floor in the front then it is the correct length. Being men we are more worried about the length in the front for obvious reasons. James tells me that while checking the length of his Kilt the sole of one of his Ghillie Brogues broke away.  He didn't have a replacement since a pair of wingtips just will not do.  He also didn't want to flop down the aisle.  He and Kenny made a mad dash to the mens' shop to get a replacement but they were not open. In quick witted desperation he decided to "super glue" the sole back to the shoe.  I have to admit looking down from the rampart it worked perfectly. Once Jodie walked down the aisle in her beautiful gown no one would bother giving James more than casual glance so he was pretty safe.

Once the piper joined James, Kenny and the kids the look was complete and the presiding official had to beat everyone back to keep the ceremony on track.   She reminded me of an old Sergeant Major, taking care of a new lieutenant, polite, organized and very firm, while still allowing the wedding party to enjoy the day but not get side tracked.    She brought the men up to the Gatehouse suite, then laid down the law to the guest, "No flash photos, quiet until the kiss, and that we were in a very historical venue so we should try to behave as best we could."    She then told us that the Bride would arrive when she was ready, it sounded like, "When she was good and ready." but it was only when she was ready.   James seated his Mother, who had flown in from South Africa, and then seated his sons.  This being the first time they had worn Kilts and since you have all seen "Braveheart" you know what is worn or not worn under Kilts.  He said to the boys, "Keep your legs together."  which Nick later commented he thought was meant for James' Mother not for them. 

The ceremony was the most intimidating ceremony I have ever attended. Cheryl and I have been married for 28 years and I'm not sure I would have re-enlisted under those terms. It was all very legal, with the official explaining what papers had been signed and what paperwork had been filed and checked. I was most surprised to learn that you need everyone in attendance to agree that they think you should go ahead and get married, so I would either have to invite less people or at least be more selective since most of our friends, really most of Cheryl's friends would have given into pressure and spoken up. Luckily we all thought that Jodie and James were a perfect couple so the ceremony went on without a problem.

James has never been a timid guy but he did seem to grow a little uncomfortable at the wait from when he and Kenny came in, and when Jodie showed up. Ideas of "the run away bride" had to be bouncing around in his head, in between his comments to the boys about, "trying not to stab each other." There was an audible sigh of relief when we were told that Jodie had arrived.  I'm not sure if it was from the guest or from James.  She was of course beautiful her wedding dress matching the room perfectly. She looked like a princess and I'm sure many of the tourist thought she might have been. The Gatehouse suite is cozy so the wedding march played by the piper had to be a bit abbreviated.  Jodie took a couple small geisha like steps and then gave up and took the final step up to James.  My wedding wasKenny, James, Jodie, and Mary Stewart Wedding Photo one long giggling fit as Cheryl said the vows between uncontrollable giggles mostly coming from her but I assume some of the guest thought the whole thing a bit amusing.   With the Sergeant Major in charge of this wedding I don't think giggling was an option.  On funny moment was when James trying to be sensitive or showing a lack of confidence  failed to properly seat the ring on his lovely brides finger, this earned him the rebut "push harder" from Jodie. A phrase that most guys are happy to hear, but not during the ceremony.

There was still a bit of paperwork to be completed so the new Mr and Mrs Stewart left the room.  The official came back in walked up to the the front of the room and announced very solemnly, "Now Ladies and Gentlemen please become up standing for  "Mr and Mrs Smith."    I assume it is because James still has a pretty strong South African accent and Jodie showed up for the rehearsal in an "England" football jumper.  Now for my American friends the Scottish are not that fond of England in fact they are the only Europeans that seem to like the French since the French often were at war with England at the same time as the Scots were fighting them.   It is not a good idea to show up for your wedding rehearsal at Edinburgh castle wearing a "England" shirt.  Really it is not good to show up in Scotland wearing a England shirt but it is especially bad form at the Castle.  I think the official just could not believe that James really was a Stewart of Appin.  He just looked a lot more like a "Smith"    We all laughed which I think confused and worried Mr and Mrs Stewart who were just about to enter the room as an official married couple.

 backtotop-scotland-crest.jpgReception

The reception started immediately after the wedding in the adjoining Ante Room, with drinks and canapés. It was a lovely reception and after an hour or so, just at dusk we all went down to have a photo of everyone at the wedding taken in front of the main gate, backlit by the torches.  We piled into a string of waiting taxis and were off to the hotel Bruntsfield.  There we settled in for a long night of drinking and merriment.  Everyone in the room was trying to windup Kenny Stewart, the  Best Man, who although he was seen taking more than a wee bit of whisky from his flask, along with copious amounts of wine served with dinner, and a number of drinks from the bar still seemed to be a bit nervous.  All of this drinking is never a good sign because we have all suffered through the drunken best man slurring out an incoherent toast, that while it does embarrass the bride and groom, doesn't really lift the mood. This toast unfortunately was wonderful, it would have been much more funny to be able to write how terrible it was but it had just the right amount of humor and sentiment, so I guess that proves that a Scotsman can hold his alcohol better than an American.  The only embarrassing part is when Kenny blurts out that James has purchased his fifth guitar.  He doesn't do it because he is drunk, he tells the story now because he assumes it is better for Jodie to hear it while the bloom is still on the rose.  Jodie doesn't seem all that amused which of course amuses us so either way it turns out well. 

I'm writing this part of the story as my wife softly snores in the bed behind me. It is 10:30 in the morning and while that means that it is 4:30 in the morning in Fort Worth, I believe it has more to do with us staying up drinking until 3:30 in the morning than it does with our jet lag.   3:30 am and the last people we said good night to was Mr. and Mrs Smith, so you know it must have been a great reception.  It also means that if you want to seriously drink in the UK you should do it at a wedding reception. The pubs close at 11:00 pm but if you are a guest at the hotel they will keep bringing you booze until whatever time you finally decide to call it quits.

Now back to the reception, James does his speech and I am amazingly jealous.  He has a funny story to tell about most of his guests.  Really most of them are funny stories about himself that each one of us has shared with him.   The story that he shared about us was the time he bought a very special bottle of Vodka on a business trip we took together in Poland, unfortunately we were traveling onto Russia to speak at BrainShare the next day.   The custom guys looked at James like he was out of his mind as they looked at the Vodka.  I thought we were going to end up getting stripped searched by these guys. When we got into the taxi I said to him, "James, only you would try to smuggle Vodka into Russia."    I was touched that he would remember that story and more amazed that he would be able to tell that story on his wedding day along with twenty more about each of the people that had been lucky enough to be at his wedding.  Kenny the Best Man is married to Mary the maid of honour, and it tickled him to make comments about how the best man was going to "score" with the maid of honour.  This was pretty funny only because all the married couples knew it wasn't true. If you drink heavily and make your wife the center of most of your jokes you can be pretty sure you are not "going to get lucky." 

He also decided to break with tradition and wear a pair of bicycle shorts under his Kilt.  He mentioned this only after he had flashed a number of ladies at the reception.  Of course he thankfully never flashed me so I will have to take the young ladies word that all they saw was a pair of bicycle shorts.  He told me that in November a man can not really feel like a man if he wears the Kilt in the traditional way. I also assume that a man would not be flashing young ladies with the weather being as cold as it was since he would be at distinct disadvantage to impress them so I believe him. 

backtotop-scotland-crest.jpgTourist in Edinburgh   podcast-mp3.gif.jpg

Sunday

We got a kind of late start on Sunday.  Cheryl always wakes up starving but since she slept in, breakfast was no longer being served in the hotel. We dressed and headed out into a slightly overcast day.  The first mission every morning is to "feed Cheryl."   I walked her past a couple of places since they didn't have any tables and I didn't relish walking along in the cold damp late morning air with a slice of cheese in one hand and a loaf of bread in the other. We finally found a small French Café  which surprised me until I remembered that James told me the Scottish people actually like the French. I didn't believe him but here was proof.  We had a soup bowl of coffee and a Danish, which I thought was very international of us.  Here we were a couple of Americans in Scotland, sitting in a French Café eating a Danish.  I like to walk, you wouldn't think that a guy that weighs in at 15 Stone 10 pounds would be a walker but I am. I think it lets you see more and experience things better than you would from the back of a taxi, I'm also cheap. holyroodhouse.jpg  We walk back up to the Castle but since today I would have to pay to walk around it and as I mentioned I'm cheap, so we walk down the Royal mile.  We stop in to see if we can take the "Mary Close Tour" but it is booked solid for the rest of the day, so we continue our "force march."   The Royal mile ends at the Palace of Holyroodhouse  which I thought was called Hollywood the first time we visited because the Scottish accent is a bit hard to follow when you are a dumb to the bone American.  It was built as a monastery in 1128 so of course has a pretty deep and long history.  It is the Queen's official residence in Scotland but it was also the official residence of Mary, Queen of Scots, which didn't end all that well for her.  

The Holyroodhouse residence is across the street from the New Scottish Parliament Building which has been so badly received that the description on the web just says;

New Scottish Parliament Building
Designed by Catalan architect Enrico Miralles, opened in 2005

New Scottish Parliament photoYou have to admit it is a pretty silly looking building, built for way too much money, way over budget, and it fails to fit architecturally into the environment. The only positive thing about it is, that it is not in America.  No one can tell me why they decided to put bent sticks around the windows.  

To the right of both of these buildings is Rascal Road.  It's called that because it was one of the first  "public works project" really it was a way of putting all of the trouble makers to work.  They built a trail that steeply climbs the hillside next to the town.  It has wonderful views but since it was pretty overcast that day I didn't get any photos that were keepers. We climbed to the top and waited for the Sun to break though the haze, which it did just after we had given up and hiked back down.

We stopped at a coffee shop on the way back up the Royal Mile which was next to a Starbucks, but I refuse to buy coffee at a Starbucks in Scotland. I think we stopped because Cheryl was getting a bit tired, not because the gallon of coffee we had at breakfast was wearing off.   We did a little shopping, Cheryl wanted a necklace. The problem is that she is cheap, but has excellent taste, so you have to shop for a very long time to find something good enough and cheap enough for her, which is the problem.  I really don't have a problem with her being cheap. It is a prized attribute for a wife and I thank my lucky stars every time I realize how cheap she is.    

We went to a place for lunch that was an American restaurant but in our defense it didn't look like an American restaurant.lunch-scotland.jpg Cheryl ended up ordering a burger and fries since their wasn't much else on the menu.  I ordered poppers (deep fried jalapenos stuffed with cheese) and some god awful soup.  Not your traditional Scottish fare.  I did eat haggis at Breakfast four out of the six days we were in Scotland so I don't feel too bad about mistakenly eating at an American restaurant.

We shopped and walk around some more until dinner time which for us, because we are old, is around 5:00 pm. We made sure we didn't go to another American, or French place so ended up at Deacon Brodie's Tavern. I had a wee dram of Whisky and Cheryl had a pint along with a nice pub meal.  The place is suppose to be the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson's Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, since Deacon Brodie, was a good citizen by day and a robber by night. It was a very nice meal. We were suppose to hook up with James and Jodie the next day and then all of us were going to get together with Mary and Kenny for Dinner at the Scotch Malt Whisky Society.  I wasn't sure this was going to happen because the plans were made in kind of a drunken haze very early in the morning at the reception.   We walked around some more that night and then headed off to bed, as good senior citizens are suppose to do. 

Monday

We found a message slipped under our door saying that James was going to come by and pick us up around 10:00 am and take us on a tour of the local distiller. I have been to Scotland a couple of times but have never visited a distiller before and was really looking forward to it.  I was a bit afraid that solemn promise was made after drinking just a bit too much whisky so James might have forgotten us.  He also had a few other things on his mind with the wedding and honeymoon so I was prepared to be disappointed but James has never disappointment before and his record remains untarnished.    We drove by their old house that looked out over the bay it was very pretty but I assume it could get a bit windy .  It also had a great view. We then stopped off at the local pub. A great old place tucked off the side of the main road.  Of course the main roads in Scotland are about as wide as my driveway in Texas so I was pretty happy James was driving us around.   The inside of the pub was light an airy something you don't see a lot in the UK and the owner came over to our table and chatted with us about the wedding.  We commented on the sayings that she had stenciled along the top of the pub's ceiling. She said she didn't like a lot of clutter and bric-a-brac so she thought they would be a nice change, one read; "The difference between genius and stupidity was that one of them has limits."  My favorite said, "Ne'er drink Whisky wr'oot water and  Ne'er drink water wr'oot whisky" or in an American accent 'Never drink whisky without water and never drink water without whisky."  I always drank my Whiskey "neat" and spelled it with an "e"   When we toured the Distillery I learned I was wrong on both counts, a splash of water brings life to a dram of Whisky and I'm not going to argue with a Scotsmen  about how to spell Whisky.

We finished up our drinks and headed over to James new house.  We drove by one of about 50 golf courses I had seen in Scotland. I was kidding James that I didn't know Scotland had so many golf courses.  He told me, "Any land found not suitable for Golf wil be reclaimed for agricultural use."    He showed us around the new house. James had removed a couple thousand cubit feet of concrete in the back garden and replaced it with lawn.  He was turning the front of the garage into a storage shed and the back into a den / music room, "some place to hang his five guitars."   In the kitchen their was a box with a new Amp just purchased from e-Bay.  Kenny had mentioned the fifth guitar but had either not known about or was smart enough not to mention the Amp after seeing Jodie's reaction to the guitar. Glenkinchie-Still-B-1.jpgThe four of us piled into James' car and we headed off to the Glenkinchie Distillery. This distillery is a lowland distiller which means that it makes a dryer Whisky.  The highland whisky is a bit sweeter and the Islay whisky is more peaty.  I assume that Irish Whiskey (They do spell it with the "e" by the way) is also peaty but I was told by a Scotsman that they would only drink Irish Whiskey if they ran out of water.  We learned all about Whisky, no where in the UK do they call it Scotch. If you want a Scotch you ask for a Whisky. I assume in Ireland you would get Irish Whiskey and that it would be rude in either country to order the Whisky from the other.  The distillery we toured doesn't export their malt it is used in blends, like Haig, Johnny Walker Red and Black Label, Buchanan and Dimple.  I did pick up a very nice bottle of double matured 18 year old lowland Edinburgh single Malt Whisky. You shouldn't drink any Whisky younger that the youngest girl you would date.   I stuck James with buying the tickets since I assume I had not imposed on them enough already having them book our hotel, pick us up at the airport, driving us around, taking us for a tour of their old home and new home and then finally taking us out for dinner.  I found later while James was driving us around his mother was stuck taking a bus into town.   He also picked us up a couple of very nice Whisky glasses as a thank you for abusing them both. It was a very enjoyable day and we still had dinner at the Whisky Society to look forward to, if Kenny remembered his inebriated offer.    

Jodie told us a funny story as we road into Edinburgh. She said that she wanted to know what the Hairy Cows that you see around Scotland were called, so she asked one of the local farmers. He told her they were called "Hairy Coo"  Which of course is just how Hairy Cow sounds with a Scottish accent. She was unimpressed thinking that he was going to tell her something like they are called a Scottish Highlander or other official name.  I suppose if you show up for your wedding rehearsal in Edinburgh castle wearing an England shirt you can't expect the locals to do much more than goof on you when you ask what a Hairy Cow is called.  It is by the way a Scottish Highlander and highlands_hairy_cow_t.jpgis the oldest registered European beef cow.  They have been around since the sixth century. Of course I have never heard of them called anything but "Hairy Coo."   We were a little early for dinner and I was still wondering if Kenny was going to remember his drunken promise to take us to the Scotch Malt Whisky Society.  I was counting on his wife Mary remembering.  I assume it is one of those things were you wake up and say,"I know I promised somebody that I would take them to the Whisky Society but I can not remember who?" I was counting on the sober wife to remind him that it was. "Cheryl and Tom, the goofy American couple."

Since we were early we stopped at Starbucks. I know it doesn't make any sense and what is worst I don't really like coffee.   It was kind of nice because I got a "tea cake" and tea.  I can not really order tea in the US without coming off as a little gay.  I assumed I would be OK in the UK. Now that I think about it, because of my American accent I'm sure the guy behind the counter assumed I must be gay. He knows that we all drink coffee.  He smiled at me and  I did get a "Venti" for the price of a "Grande" so either way it worked out.

We showed up at the Whisky Society and were informed that Kenny and Mary had not arrived yet, and that they were not going to be serving dinner since the dinning room was reserved for the theater crowd.   I have to admit I was getting a bit nervous but then they said well if he is a member he is most likely upstairs in the lounge.   We walked up stairs and no Kenny or Mary but they did have a very impressive bar. I assume even if this is the worst case scenario it was still going to be a pretty damn good night.  We ordered a couple of drinks, just as Mary and Kenny arrived.  I lived in Europe for almost six years, three in Germany and almost another three in England. I have never been so well hosted as we were in Scotland.  Kenny and Mary came straight over from work. I'm sure it was not high on their list of things to do that night.  They helped us pick out the right Whisky and recommended a wonderful meal. We eat in the casual atmosphere of a place that I never would have dreamed I would be allowed to visit.  We were sitting in Edinburgh Scotland listening to  Mary's lovely Scottish lilt as we drank fine Whisky inside the Scotch Malt Whisky Society lounge.   I, of course, stuck Kenny with the bill since as you know I'm cheap.

James and Jodie dropped us back at the hotel and we said our goodbye's.  They were going home to get ready for their Honeymoon. Five days in New York City and three days in Toronto.   Going to the Northeastern part of North America in November is really a smart move, most people head off to the Bahamas or Hawaii.  That doesn't make any sense if you are in the Bahamas your wife wants to lay out on the beach, in New York City your wife wants to cuddle in bed for the whole week. 

Tuesday

This is our last day, we leave on Wednesday on a 6:00 am flight so we are going to transfer to the Hilton at the airport.  We check out of the room and drop our bags off with the bell hop.  I want to see the Royal Yacht Britannia and Cheryl wants to do some shopping for the kids so we walk down to the Mall.  We look at a map in one of the book stores and decide that we can walk to the Britannia because I'm cheap. It is kind of funny to be the cheapest guy in a country known for being frugal.  The phrase I heard was, "The Scott's have deep pockets and short fingers."  So we started on our "forced march" to the Royal Yacht Britannia. It was not a great idea.  One, I was too cheap to buy the map so I wasn't positive where I was going. Two,it was a lot farther on the ground than is appeared on the map.   I also have a tendency to walk faster when I'm lost, so even though I may not be going the right way I am making good time.  This means that I was not only slightly lost but I was also pissing off Cheryl.  She keeps hinting that maybe we should take a Taxi. It was subtle things like, "Why don't we take a taxi." and  "We are taking a Taxi back!"    We made it there after a couple of hours and then did the self guided "walking"  tour.  I think it would have been better if I had not already made Cheryl do a 25 mile road march.   It was interesting and I clearly understood that some jobs suck more than mine.  I don't think I could change my uniform 12 times a day and spend months on a ship trying to be as unintrusive as possible to the royal family.

We also did the "Mary Close" tour which brings you under the city and shows you how the poor lived in Edinburgh hundreds of years ago.  It isn't amazing how many people died of the plague, it is amazing that everyone didn't die.  People were crammed together in unheated rooms with a bucket in the corner as the toilet. This was emptied by the youngest member of the family into the street along with buckets from hundreds of other families.  Then the 12 people that lived in the room would come home walk back in from the street and go to sleep on the floor.  

It was then time to head back to the to hotel collect our bags and head out to the Airport Hilton.   The Hilton cost £29 a night more than Bruntsfield and I'll clue you in, it was not worth it.  If I would have known I would have stayed at the Bruntsfield and just got up a little earlier.  I didn't sleep at all since we had to get up at 5:00 am and I never sleep well when I have to get up that early.  The walls were paper thin so I could hear the television in the next room as if it was in our room.   We tried to eat early but the restaurant wasn't open yet so we ended up eating in the smoky bar.    On the way out of the bar Cheryl stopped to buy a cookie and it cost $8.00 which I have to say as a cheap guy is more than I would pay for cookie.  I was also annoyed that the Hilton decided that I should contribute £1 to the Hilton Foundation.  

There was a card in the room that read, "To facilitate your donation a optional £1 has been added to your bill.  Guest who prefer not to donate to ChildLine are able to remove this donations from their bill easily by calling 0800.1111"    If you read the Hilton phone rates you notice that "0800 numbers and Charge cards will be charged at 90p per call.   So if you want to save 10p and take 90p from Childline giving it to the Hilton in way of  phone charges you can call.   If you want to find out what the heck Childline does you can pay £15 (about $30) to get Internet access and go to www.hilton-foundation.org.uk  I'm not really complaining because it was worth the $2 bucks to be able to complain about it in this travel log.
I will not bored you with the details about the flight home, it was pretty uneventful. It takes an extra 2 hours to fly back because of the jet stream. Two hours extra of screaming kids, and movies that I have already seen. Except now I am watching them on an 8 inch screen. I am not trying to say that 8 inches is small, I have been trying to convince Cheryl that 8 inches is very large for the last 28 years so I'll end on that note.                                                                                                                       
  

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James' Family Crest
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